TAIWAN Aboriginal hand-embroidered STITCH and material research 4-3

Aborigines of taiwan – 6. Bunun

Hand-embroidered itemsOverviewStitch
Sleeve sleeveTie with soft sheepskin stitched. Nail needle thread embroidery technique
Leather sleeveless blouseMost of them are made of mountain deer skins, which are divided into two types: hairy and non-hairy, covering the shoulders slightly. Nail needle thread embroidery technique
Fur coatMostly sheepskin, worn in winter.
Decorated with intricate textures, bright colors, and wearing some accessories, it becomes a costume.
The long skirt is decorated with symmetrical top and bottom patterns near the hem, such as traditional webbing, slender fabric strips of various colors, or embroidered patterns, with red edges; and wearing copper bells.
Suture stitch
Straight needle embroidery technique
Nail needle thread embroidery technique
Sleeveless collar
long vest
Similar to Tsou and Thao styles. Suture stitch
Chest cloth
Belly pocket
Embroidery patterns (applied fabrics with various flower patterns) are applied to the collar belt and the right flap. Back Embroidery Technique
Chinese style right-breasted collared long-sleeved semi-long coatIn addition to leather caps and turbans, they are mostly made of shells mixed with glass beads. Suture stitch
Nail needle thread embroidery technique
HeadwearThe two ends are mostly decorated with round plush balls or linear embroidery (back-stitch method) with flower sketch patterns. Back Embroidery Technique
scarfSmall beads of various colors are used to string together, and some are made by stringing black beads, pottery beads, wood seeds, or calamus root. Buttonhole Embroidery Technique
Back-stitching
Nail needle thread embroidery technique
Sleeveless collar
long vest
All white linen woven garments with no patterns applied, some of them are embossed on the front, back, and underarms with a horizontal weaving or picking pattern, and on the back underarms, a horizontal wide edge is applied. The woolen thread picks and weaves the pattern (mostly the hundred step snake ridge pattern is the mainstay) to make the dress top. Suture stitch
Arch Needle Embroidery Technique
Lock stitch embroidery technique
Yamagata embroidery
Applique embroidery technique
Cross stitch (grid embroidery)
Cross herringbone embroidery technique
Men's Long Sleeve Short TopEmbroidered cloth pieces are stitched together.Suture stitch
Arch Needle Embroidery Technique
Lock stitch embroidery technique
Yamagata embroidery
Applique embroidery technique
Cross stitch (grid embroidery)
Cross herringbone embroidery technique
Men's NecklaceSmall beads of various colors are strung and worn alternately. There are also black beads, pottery beads, wood seeds, or calamus roots that are strung together in a string, hanging on the chest as a decoration. Beaded
Nail needle thread embroidery technique
Women's bustHeadwear, forehead straps, earrings, neckwear, chest accessories, hand accessories, etc. Beaded
Nail needle thread embroidery technique
Women's long dresses
Women's long skirt
The two-piece long skirt is worn on the occasion of celebration and ceremonies. It is cut into square cloth from black cotton cloth, sewn with blue, white or black and white checkered cloth, and then tied with straps on the left and right upper corners.
The one-piece long skirt is made of plain linen woven uniforms. Two pieces of fabric are respectively folded in half, and then stitched up and down horizontally. The skirt head has a tie.
Sew a small pocket on the inner face of the placket, which can hold small items such as matches and tobacco. The collar ring and the right flap are embroidered with embroidered patterns and decorated with metal protruding discs exchanged outwards.
Back stepping
Applique embroidery technique
Edge decoration embroidery
Cross stitch (grid embroidery)
accessoriesIt is mostly used on men's and women's headscarves, men's long-sleeved short tops, women's tops, and women's double-piece dresses.
Generally, linear embroidery (back stitch), appliqué stitching, cross stitch, flat embroidery, and decorative embroidery outside the edges are used on cotton gauze.
The main patterns are diamond pattern, flower pattern, and swastika pattern.
The vertical cross stitching of cross stitch is not a traditional technique. It may be influenced by the neighboring Puyuma, Paiwan, and Rukai tribes who are good at this kind of embroidery.
Back Embroidery Technique
Applique embroidery technique
Flat Needle Embroidery Technique
Buttonhole Embroidery Technique
Chain Embroidery Technique
Beading (stitching method)
Cross stitch (grid embroidery)
Edge decoration embroidery technique
embroideryUse bamboo needles or metal embroidery needles to use thread on the cloth. Common techniques include cross stitch, lock stitch (or lock stitch), and straight stitch (back stitch).
People of the tribes especially like to use straight-line embroidery or chain embroidery to draw outlines or patterns on the appliques.
The long clothes of ordinary civilian women cannot be decorated with any patterns. Only the nobles can embroider, embellish, embellish, or interweave human heads, portraits and snake-like patterns.
Back Embroidery Technique
Applique embroidery technique
Flat Needle Embroidery Technique
Buttonhole Embroidery Technique
Chain Embroidery Technique
Cross stitch (grid embroidery)
Nail needle thread embroidery technique

Aborigines of taiwan – 7. Paiwan

Hand-embroidered items Overview Stitch
embroideryThe shoulder straps are strung with webbing or silver locks, and are inlaid with Japanese currency and agate, or round scallops are used as shoulder straps. Suture stitch
Arch Needle Embroidery Technique
Rolling needle embroidery technique
Lock stitch embroidery technique
Back Embroidery Technique
Straight needle embroidery technique
Yamagata embroidery
Buttonhole Embroidery Technique
Straight needle embroidery technique
Horizontal stitch embroidery technique
Oblique Flat Needle Embroidery Technique
Opening Button Hole Embroidery Technique
Cross stitch (grid embroidery)
Nail needle thread embroidery technique
Double sets of lock stitch embroidery techniques
Men's Leopard Skin Vest
Men's Long Sleeve Short Top
Men's short skirt
Men's back pants
Man shawl
Women's long dress
Women's turban
Women's Footwear
Paiwan people use red, black, and white in the colors of clothes and accessories. The four colors of red, orange, yellow, and green are widely used colors. There are many types of decorations. The most important features are the meaning and subject matter of the patterns. They emphasize the representation and simplicity of nature, which are closely related to their beliefs or ancestor worship in terms of shape.
The weaving and embroidery art of the Paiwan clothing culture can be said to be a product of the aristocratic class system in essence, and it is also a craft creation belonging to the aristocratic class.
Beaded
Applique embroidery technique
Back-stitching
Chain Embroidery Technique
Plane embroidery
Buttonhole Embroidery Technique
Edge decoration embroidery
Cross stitch (grid embroidery)
Arch needle Tibetan thread embroidery technique
Beaded (stitched shells)
Nail needle thread embroidery technique
Women's Triangle Funeral Hat
Women's Square Funeral Hat
The mourning clothes have a quite unique style in the clothing of the Paiwan people. They are all made of hemp thread with interlacing and pick-weaving patterns. The weaves are beautiful and delicate. The full set of clothing consists of a triangular mourning hat or a square mourning hat, plus a shawl-style mourning dress and a dual-purpose mourning scarf. Beaded
Back-stitching
Chain Embroidery Technique
Edge decoration embroidery technique
Cross stitch (grid embroidery)
Nail needle thread embroidery technique
Betel Nut Bag
Tobacco bag
Carry bag
Wear bag
Backpacks include: betel nut bags, tobacco bags, carrying bags or wearing bags, etc. The shoulder strap on the top of the bag is strung with a webbing or a silver chain, with Japanese coins and scallops inlaid on it, or made of round snails. It is a shoulder strap. The general way to wear it is to hang it diagonally from the right shoulder to the left waist, or from the left shoulder to the right waist. Applique embroidery technique
Chain Embroidery Technique
Nail needle thread embroidery technique
accessoriesHead ornaments, ear ornaments, neck ornaments, chest ornaments, hand ornaments, arm ornaments, waist ornaments, foot ornaments.
The glaze bead neck ornaments and chest ornaments are the most traditional and valuable.
Nail needle thread embroidery technique
Men's hatHuman-shaped patterns (including human head patterns, portrait patterns), animal-shaped patterns (realistic or geometric snakes, deer, leopards, dogs), human-beasts combined patterns, plant-shaped patterns (such as tree-like flower patterns, four petals, eight Petals or 16-petal flower leaf patterns, etc.), geometric patterns (including square, triangle, diamond, curl, sun, long arc, hair, mountain, and cross), etc., as well as the swastika influenced by Han Chinese Glyph, Leiwen, Bagua, butterfly, Chinese flower and leaf pattern, etc. Beaded
Nail needle thread embroidery technique
OrnamentationIn the early days, bamboo needles were used, but later they were completely changed to metal needles under the influence of Han Chinese.
Embroidery thread was originally cut into strips of colored cloth bought from Pingdi, and then the yarn was disassembled into thread; during the Japanese occupation, the finished embroidery thread was purchased directly for embroidery.
The embroidery parts are mostly in the collar, cuffs, sleeve ridge, right side, and both ends of the front side.
The clothes are mostly embroidered, beaded, and pasted to make exquisite decorative patterns.
The patterns rich in the characteristics of the Rukai nationality are the octagonal star pattern embroidered by the cross stitch method, and the rhombus and black thread petal pattern embroidered by the straight and horizontal stitches.
Beaded
Applique embroidery technique
Cross stitch (grid embroidery)
Nail needle thread embroidery technique

Aborigines of Taiwan-8. Rukai

Hand-embroidered items Overview Stitch
embroideryThe most are geometric patterns.
With cross stitch (similar to CANVAS embroidery), chain embroidery, linear embroidery (back stitch), ring embroidery (chain embroidery), flat embroidery, etc., embroidery frames are not used, and embroidery is carried out from the outside to the inside.
If there is a mistake in embroidery, the stitches should be removed and re-embroidered. The embroidery surface should be flat and smooth.
Plane embroidery is an embroidery stitch that is unique to the Rukai nationality.
Stitching embroidery technology
Embroidery technique back and forth
Yamagata embroidery
Arch Needle Embroidery Technique
Lock stitch embroidery technique
Rolling needle embroidery technique
Straight needle embroidery technique
Horizontal stitch embroidery technique
Oblique Flat Needle Embroidery Technique
Nail needle thread embroidery technique
Opening Button Hole Embroidery Technique
Closed Button Hole Embroidery Technique
Cross stitch (grid embroidery)
Grid embroidery (like CANVAS)
Cross herringbone embroidery technique
OrnamentationAdd an extra piece of embroidery on the right side of the front placket. Applique embroidery technique
Round neck long-sleeved short topThe lower edge is decorated with beads, small copper bells or small silver flakes. It is accompanied by a long round skirt. The lower edge is also decorated with a row of small copper bells.
Also known as the princess costume, it is only worn at the festival ceremonies.
The bright red, yellow, and green mixed with black and white, highlighting the multi-layer diamond pattern like snake scales, and the meticulous cross-stitch pattern, are the characteristics of the Puyuma costume.
Cross stitch (grid embroidery)
Nail needle thread embroidery technique
Men's short coat
Women's long dress
The Rukai people have the same decoration techniques as the Paiwan people. They mainly use four types: weaving, embroidery, pasting, and beading. Embroidery is a craft technique that women of this ethnic group must learn and apply from time to time. Since childhood, there have been competitions to compete with each other in embroidery techniques, and everyone's craftsmanship can reach the point of being very proficient.Beaded
Plane embroidery
Chain Embroidery Technique
Back-stitching
Applique embroidery technique
Counting yarn embroidery method
Rolling Needle Embroidery
Cross stitch (grid embroidery)
Edge decoration embroidery technique
Arch needle Tibetan thread embroidery technique